Fashion forward

While most Indian designers are currently focusing their energy on the upcoming fashion weeks or making inroads on International shores, a few of them are taking the route less taken and going against the popular tide.

It's not just Cannes and Paris that are on their radar, but for creative new ventures and inspiration, it's the East that has their attention. Veteran designers and masters of the trade, Ritu Kumar and Rajesh Pratap Singh, recently presented their creations at the inauguration of Fashion forward " The Royal Textile Academy" in Thimpu, Bhutan. The Bhutanese Royal family and other international dignitaries were treated to the best of Indian design with collections especially created for the event and inspired by their motherland.

Also making news for his fashion is designer Arpan Vohra, who seems to be flavour of the season amongst Bollywood's leading style icons. Lifestyle takes a look at what keeps these names at the forefront of the Indian fashion circuit.

It's time for red carpet glamour

Manish Malhotra is always the first choice for glamourous Indian wear amongst Bollywood's top starlets, but when it comes to Western ensembles, the actors find it hard to resist International luxury brands.

However, for the few fashionistas who are willing to experiment with young Indian names, designer Arpan Vohra is fast becoming the new favourite.

Vohra's signature body hugging dresses and high glamour gowns have been worn by the who's who of tinsel town.

Actors like Priyanka Chopra, Katrina Kaif, Chitrangada Singh , Kareena Kapoor , Anushka Sharma and Bipasha Basu have chosen the young lad's creations for high profile red carpet events and award functions.

Even newbies like Shruti Hassan, Aditi Rao Hydari, Huma Qureshi and Shraddha Kapoor, who are looking to make a style statement have donned outfits from the designers collection.

Arpan Vohra launched his label back in 2005 and in the past eight years it has only grown.

The designer adds, "My creativity is an extension of my thoughts that get reflected in my designs. Chic, young, sexy and fresh are qualities that are unique to my garments. I use a lot of surface texturing and modern drapes with vibrant colours to create garments that are feminine."

Master of the game

A pioneer in fashion and a name that tops the list of leading Indian fashion designers is Rajesh Pratap Singh. The master craftsman also showcased his collection as the finale designer at the inauguration ceremony of the textile museum in Bhutan. Singh put on display his ingenious ensembles and creative designs to aid the mission of preserving and promoting Bhutanese textiles.

His collection was based on designs local materials and fabrics and drew inspiration from prayer flags and hand loomed weaves. However unlike Ritu Kumar who re- interpreted the Kira , Pratap's creations were a modern and chic twist on the traditional jacket.

Interweaving contemporary design mixed with ancient techniques, the ensembles featured rich Maharajah coats and overcoat dresses. The collection was opulent in design but minimalist in its approach, a quality true to Pratap's design sense and sensibility.

An off white raw silk quality-Bhoora was used for garment creations from the local textiles and jacquards were developed for the collection.

Unlike his contemporaries who dabble in trousseau and focus on glamour and bling, Rajesh Pratap Singh has chosen unique collaborations with leading textile and fabric companies.

Known for his impeccable menswear he has recently tied up with Raymond for its Spring/ Summer 13 'Fabric of life' collection, with Shingora to create 'The Luxury Collection' and he has also been named the First Indian brand ambassador for Woolmark Company.

He has also captured the unmistakable humour of one of the India's most versatile illustrators, Mario de Miranda, with a line of T- shirts in celebration of the artist's works.

The Queen of tradition

It was only natural that designer Ritu Kumar would be one of the first choices to celebrate the inauguration of  "The Royal Textile Academy" in Bhutan, as she was also chosen to create a kira ( a blouse, skirt and quilted jacket) for Queen Jetsun Pema's engagement to King Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuk back in October 2011. Kumar's collection for the show was heavily inspired by Bhutanese Thangkas, Buddhist prayer flags and traditional weaves.

"It's not often that I am asked to make a collection that has no commercial aspects, yet will be remembered for posterity. So I was very excited when the Queen Mother of Bhutan, Ashi Sangay Choden Wangchuk, asked me to create a line to celebrate the opening of the new museum. A little nervousness was expected, but I was more excited about the opportunity I had. To create a culturally sensitive collection which opens one's eyes to something other than commerce is what makes this collection special," adds Ritu.

The ensembles were a jugalbandi of Indian fabrics with a take on the kira , finished with influences of Bhutanese imagery and colours. While some garments had Buddhist thangka paintings recreated with embroidery and patchwork, others were inspired by the wall hangings seen in Bhutan's palaces and monasteries.

Patch work jackets were highlighted with zardozi embroidery. The designer confesses that she is so inspired by her collection that she plans to carry it forward in to her Label Fall 2013 range. Kumar adds, " We will make a small, tight collection inspired by this look, translating it into T- shirts and dresses. We're also doing an interesting line of shoes in collaboration with a young, Mumbai- based brand a. k. a Bespoke."